The cafe opened their doors early. As I waited to pay the five euro entrance fee, a low, assertive meow sounded right next to my ear. A large, black manx stared at me from an eye-level shelf. The cat made unblinking eye contact and meowed again, letting me know whose house I was in. "Hi," I replied. The cat stared, a perfectly round, perfectly still ball of self-possession. I knew I'd come to the right place.